Why is tortoise not eating
Tortoises tend not to be too hungry when they emerge from hibernation. They prioritize water and hydration over food and sustenance. Ensure that your tortoise has access to plenty of water when they first wakes from his hibernation. Once they are fully hydrated, they should show interest in food again. For the first little, while after they wake up, feed them foods with a high water content, such as fruits and vegetables, they may be more accepting of these types of foods.
Digestion works slower in tortoises than it does in humans. If a tortoise gets backed up a bit, they will go on a self-starvation until things get moving and they have room for more food. You can have the two days of withholding back-to-back, or you can spread them out through the rest of the week. Pick a schedule that works for you and it will automatically work for your tortoise. Feeding them this way will prevent them from going on a longer starvation period in the summer. If your tortoise is too cold, they will not eat as their entire system slows down.
Ensuring that you have your tortoise away from windows, and other areas where he could catch a draft, is vital. There are several illnesses in tortoises that could cause them to not want to eat. The top three illnesses that generally cause a tortoise to stop eating are:. When it comes to how long a tortoise can go without eating there is a broad range of time, based on several factors.
The short and quick answer is that a tortoise can go anywhere from 6 months to 3 years without eating. Like I said, a broad range. Most tortoise species, especially those that live in colder climates, regularly go around six months or so without food as they hibernate during that time. However, there have been certain factors for them to make it this long.
Bear in mind that if the temperatures drop in the habitat, your tortoise may want to go into brumation, which will result in your pet not eating. Tortoises are very sensitive to temperatures, being cold-blooded they need to be kept warm. You should have a warm and cool side to the enclosure. Using a digital thermometer can help you monitor the habitat temperature regularly to ensure temperatures remain at optimum. As with all living things, health problems arise from time to time.
There are three main health problems that can result in your tortoise not wanting to eat. Mouth Rot Stomatitis is a mouth infection that spreads down the throat if it is not treated quickly and effectively.
Being located in the mouth, the infection makes it difficult for your pet to eat and it's not uncommon for tortoises with mouth rot to refuse food. You should check your tortoise twice a year to identify if it has any internal parasites. This should be done in summer and just before brumation.
Keep a close eye on droppings for signs of worms. If you notice worms, your tortoises should be treated by the vet soonest. A tortoise that is not eating and isn't just coming out of brumation can be offered their favorite treat, which usually does the trick. If they take the treat, this means the problem could be diet-related.
Take note of what is eaten and what is left behind, along with how much your tortoise eats of each green, vegetable, and fruit you offered. Maybe you notice that some greens are eaten and some are left behind, or if the food was offered in layers, the first top layers are eaten, and then the tortoise stops.
This shows you that there are foods that your pet is not showing interest in and you can eliminate them from the diet. Ensure your tortoise is warm enough. If he is spending most of the time under the heating lamp and not moving around, then your temperatures could be too low. I put him in a small pin meant for exercising hamsters perfect for a baby tortoise. Its like a tiny fenced in area for him.
He will walk and try to find a way out. He is not shy or skiding. He is very interested in watching me. When I pick him up he does not go into his shell.
He just looks at me. I have yet to see him bask in the heat lamp. I soak him every other day in a bowl filled with less than one inch of luke warm water. I don't think there is anything else to tell That's about it. Mine did not eat for 3 days when I got them and had no BM. I think it may be normal due to stress. If you can and if your baby complies, take a stool sample for testing.
Audrey, when is the last time you soaked him? Also, what is the high temperature? They won't eat if they're cold and are less likely to eat if they need water. I soak him every other day in a little less than 1" of water. I soaked him Monday and will soak him today and Friday. He has a water dish in his enclosure big enough to climb in and did climb in it on Sunday and Monday.
The temps in the cage are 75 in the cool area and 83 under the basking buld, but he has never basked and mostly stays in his cool hide-out. Should I get a hotter light Should I buy a heat pad too? Perhaps the best recommendation I can give is I have the zoo med reptile ramp bowl in my own tortoise enclosure and my tortoise loves it.
Zoo Med Reptile Ramp Bowls. Aside from heat, your tortoises will also need UV light. Tortoises perceive the world in UV light. UV lights should be turned on anywhere between 10 — 14 hours a day.
Having insufficient lighting may cause your tortoises to not only lose their appetite, but also start making them inactive. Some tortoise species, especially the Mediterannean ones, will undergo hibernation. Sometimes, despite having an optimal environment for your pet tortoises, they may still need to hibernate. Do note that not all tortoises hibernate. Make sure to do the proper amount of research before trying to force your tortoise into it.
To help your tortoise hibernate, stop trying to feed it. Do not let this go lower than 32 F. The best temperature for hibernation is around 36 F — 41 F. You may also use to the refrigerator method, where you starve the tortoise out from about 2 — 4 weeks before hibernation depending on the age , and you keep them in a box inside the fridge.
Keep your tortoise in a plastic container where they can turn degrees comfortably, with a bit of sterilized soil or substrate at the bottom. You can keep this securely closed with rubber bands.
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